For centuries, winemaking has been a domain predominantly governed by men, a tradition that traces its origins to ancient civilizations. The earliest known vintners, residing in the regions of Gadachrili Gora and nearby settlements, began producing wine on a substantial scale as far back as 6,000 B.C. during an era when stone and bone tools were still in use. Despite this male dominance, the landscape of winemaking is undergoing a profound transformation. In recent years, a new wave of women winemakers has emerged, challenging the status quo with their innovative approaches, dedication to sustainability, and unwavering passion for crafting exceptional wines. This article delves into the inspiring journeys of these pioneering women at esteemed wineries such as Evodia, Domaine Lafage, Domaine de la Janasse, Herencia Altes, Mas Alta, and Turning Tide Winery.
Yolanda Diaz of Evodia
Evodia, a distinguished winery in Spain’s Calatayud region, has garnered acclaim for being a vibrant and affordable Garnacha, thanks largely to the vision and leadership of Yolanda Diaz. A native of the region, Yolanda’s deep connection to her family’s viticultural heritage has been a driving force in her career. Her journey began years ago when Eric Solomon, a prominent figure in the wine world, introduced her to Jean-Marc Lafage during a project in Calatayud. Growing up amidst the vineyards, Yolanda developed an intimate understanding of the terruño of Calatayud, a knowledge that would later become the foundation of her approach to winemaking. Inspired by her surroundings and fueled by a passion for innovation, she pursued studies in oenology, determined to blend modern techniques with the time-honored practices of her family.
As the head winemaker of Evodia, Yolanda Diaz plays a pivotal role in every stage of production. She meticulously oversees everything from grape selection to bottling, ensuring that each wine reflects the true character of the Calatayud terroir. Her approach is a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, honoring the legacy of her ancestors while embracing the advancements in viticulture. Yolanda’s wines are celebrated for their expressiveness and authenticity, a testament to her dedication and expertise.
Central to Yolanda’s philosophy is a deep commitment to sustainable viticulture. Under her stewardship, Evodia has adopted organic farming practices, focusing on soil health and reducing chemical inputs. Yolanda believes that sustainability is not merely a choice but a responsibility—to protect the environment and ensure the longevity of the vineyards for future generations. As she puts it, “For me, winemaking is about respecting the land and letting the grapes tell their story. Sustainability is not just a choice; it’s a responsibility we have to future generations.” Her approach has not only enhanced the quality of the grapes but has also positioned Evodia as a leader in eco-conscious winemaking.
Eliane Lafage in her coastal vineyard plot
When you think of European Cellars, it is often that the name Jean-Marc Lafage is mentioned due to his long-standing relationship with Eric Solomon. Along for the ride the entire time, Eliane Lafage, co-owner and winemaker at Domaine Lafage in Roussillon, has played a pivotal role in transforming the family estate into a vibrant and innovative winery. With a solid foundation in agronomy and oenology, she brought a scientific rigor to the winemaking process, emphasizing precision and quality. This approach has not only enhanced the wines’ consistency and expression but also positioned Domaine Lafage as a leader in the region, known for its distinctive and finely crafted wines.
Eliane’s involvement at the winery is comprehensive, overseeing every aspect from vineyard management to the intricate art of blending. Her innovative spirit has driven the creation of wines that authentically represent the diverse terroirs of Roussillon, each bottle telling the story of the land it comes from. This dedication to terroir, combined with her meticulous attention to detail, has earned Domaine Lafage international recognition and a reputation for excellence.
Sustainability is at the heart of Eliane’s winemaking philosophy. Under her guidance, Domaine Lafage has embraced practices such as cover cropping, which enriches the soil and promotes biodiversity, alongside efforts to reduce water usage and minimize the winery’s carbon footprint. Her commitment to sustainability extends beyond the vineyard to include environmentally conscious packaging, with a focus on using recyclable materials. As Eliane herself puts it, “Winemaking is both an art and a science. Our goal is to craft wines that are not only delicious but also sustainable, ensuring that we leave the earth in better shape than we found it.”
Isabelle Sabon and brother Christopher
Isabelle Sabon, representing the third generation of her family at Domaine de la Janasse, has deep roots in the winemaking traditions of the Rhône Valley. Growing up surrounded by the vines and learning the craft from her father, Aimé Sabon, Isabelle’s path into the world of wine seemed almost predestined. The estate, known for producing some of the region’s most revered wines, has been in her family for decades, and Isabelle’s early immersion in the vineyard life instilled in her a profound respect for the land and the art of winemaking.
Today, Isabelle plays a pivotal role in the winery’s operations, overseeing everything from vineyard management to marketing. Her hands-on approach, combined with an intimate understanding of the terroir, has not only preserved but elevated Domaine de la Janasse’s reputation as a benchmark for Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines. Isabelle’s leadership ensures that the estate continues to thrive, with its wines celebrated for their complexity, balance, and expression of the unique Rhône Valley terroir.
Sustainability is at the heart of Isabelle’s winemaking philosophy. Continuing the Sabon family’s tradition of working in harmony with nature, she has championed biodynamic practices, focusing on the importance of biodiversity and maintaining the natural balance of the vineyard. “The land gives us everything we need to create exceptional wines,” she reflects. “It’s our duty to nurture it and ensure it remains fertile and healthy for generations to come.”
Nùria Altés, the driving force behind Herencia Altes
Núria Altés, the force behind Herencia Altés in Terra Alta, Spain, grew up in a winemaking family and developed a deep appreciation for the old vines that her ancestors had cultivated. Determined to preserve these ancient vineyards, Núria founded Herencia Altés with a vision to create wines that would honor her heritage while appealing to contemporary palates. Her journey from a childhood among vines to leading one of the region’s most respected wineries is a testament to her deep-rooted connection to the land and her unwavering dedication to quality.
As both proprietor and winemaker, Núria is involved in every facet of the winery’s operations. From managing the vineyards to overseeing the winemaking process and even handling marketing efforts, her influence is felt throughout. This hands-on approach ensures that each bottle of Herencia Altés wine is a true reflection of the unique Terra Alta terroir, embodying the authenticity and character that Núria holds dear.
Núria’s passion for sustainable agriculture is evident in her commitment to organic farming practices across the estate. By embracing these methods, she not only preserves the old vines but also protects the environment, positioning Herencia Altés as a leader in sustainable winemaking in the region. “Our old vines are a living link to the past,” Núria says. “It’s our responsibility to protect them and ensure they continue to thrive for future generations.” This dedication to sustainability and heritage is at the heart of Herencia Altés, making its wines not just a product of the land, but a legacy for the future.
Anne-Laurence Robert of Mas Alta
The story of Mas Alta, nestled in the rugged hills of Priorat, Spain, is one of perseverance and vision. Anne-Laurence Robert, a Belgian-born oenologist, discovered an irresistible connection to the region’s unique terroir, leading her to co-found Mas Alta with the ambition of producing world-class wines. Her extensive background in winemaking, paired with an unwavering passion for Priorat’s dramatic landscape, has been instrumental in the winery’s remarkable journey toward success.
Anne-Laurence is the driving force behind Mas Alta, expertly guiding both vineyard management and winemaking. Her profound understanding of the region’s challenging conditions, from the steep slopes to the unforgiving climate, allows her to craft wines that balance power and elegance. This delicate interplay is a testament to her skill and deep respect for the land, resulting in wines that truly reflect the essence of Priorat.
Sustainability lies at the heart of Mas Alta’s philosophy, a commitment Anne-Laurence champions with dedication. She has integrated organic farming practices into the vineyard and is actively exploring biodynamic methods to further enhance vineyard health. Water conservation and soil management are central to her sustainability efforts, reflecting her belief that responsible stewardship is essential to capturing the wild, untamed beauty of Priorat. “The beauty of Priorat lies in its wild, untamed nature. Our goal is to create wines that capture this essence while ensuring that our practices are sustainable and respectful of the environment,” she notes, encapsulating her approach to winemaking and the land she cherishes.
Emma Thompson, founder of Turning Tide
Emma Thompson, the visionary behind Turning Tide Winery in the coastal regions of New Zealand, is a newcomer to the winemaking scene but has quickly made a name for herself with her innovative approach. With a background in marine biology, Emma brings a unique perspective to viticulture, focusing on the intricate interplay between the coastal environment and vine health. Her journey into winemaking began with a passion for understanding how the ocean influences the land, and this curiosity led her to explore how these forces could be harnessed to produce exceptional wines.
As the founder and head winemaker at Turning Tide, Emma plays a pivotal role in shaping the winery’s identity. She leads the efforts to produce wines that authentically express the unique characteristics of their coastal terroir. Her scientific background informs a meticulous approach to both vineyard management and the winemaking process, ensuring that every bottle reflects the delicate balance between the sea and the vines. This attention to detail has quickly set Turning Tide apart in a competitive industry.
Sustainability is at the heart of Emma’s philosophy, permeating every aspect of Turning Tide’s operations. The winery practices organic farming, utilizes renewable energy, and has implemented initiatives to protect the coastal ecosystems surrounding the vineyards. Emma’s deep respect for the environment is evident in her belief that “the ocean and the land are deeply connected. By practicing sustainable viticulture, we ensure that both our vineyards and the coastal environment can thrive together.” Through her leadership, Turning Tide is not just producing wine but fostering a harmonious relationship between nature and agriculture.
The contributions of these women in the winemaking industry are not only reshaping the way wines are produced but also setting new standards for sustainability and innovation. Their dedication to preserving the land while creating exceptional wines is an inspiration to future generations of winemakers. As the wine industry continues to evolve, the influence of these pioneering women will undoubtedly leave a lasting legacy.
— Written by Debbie Antoszyk